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two tree treehouse plans

For the roof sheathing I used 9mm plywood for exterior uses (WBP ply). I don't include the lengths in the description, as they always depend on the size of every particular treehouse. The materials you will see in the next steps are chosen having in mind the small size/light weight and the generally mild weather here, so mind if you are planning to build something bigger or if your town is regularly visited by hurricanes/snow. The 33x42 boards were connected with 6x80mm inox screws (1 screw in every junction), using an angle clamp to hold them while making the pilot holes. Then let the spirit level sit on both boards near the tree on the left hand and adjust the height of the back board until it is level with the front board. The beam attached to the second tree has notches cut near the ends, to guide the sliding beams. Also, you need two wider brackets that will act as your "sliding" brackets, allowing your treehouse to kind of "float" on the trees in windy days. Before placing the interior sheathing, I put some black and red pairs of wires that will be hidden inside the walls. Unfortunately, the ply sheets were not wide enough to cover the entire roof, so I had to add two stripes of ply towards the top of the roof putting silicone at the junctions. Thus, I came with the idea to diagonally support the platform from above using steel wire (see 1st pic). Take notes and try to visualize the steps involved. Use the metal brackets to bolt 2x8 or larger beams onto as extension arms. I can't stress enough how helping was the 3D modelling of the treehouse. I got 16x200mm (5/8"x8") but in many countries you can easily find 20x300mm (3/4"x12). All boards and planks are swedish pine, as it is broadly used here for porches/shelters and it is cheap. Projects for beginners, with or without trees, Download plans from Treehouse Guides The bottom of the boards needs to be at the hight you want your bolts. Google "kids house", "wendy house", "garden shed" for the house that will sit on the platform. Happily, it all ended well, and I am glad to share the whole project with you. The wall frames are made of 33x42mm boards (white in 1st pic), except the top plates of the side walls (brown in 1st pic) which are made of 44x95mm (nominal dimension is 50x100mm or 2"x4"). If the board and walls are less than perfectly squared (I had +/-1mm discrepancies) it is better to cut the rafters a little longer and then sand them to fit tightly against the ridge board. Eventually, I had to chop a small triangular piece right above the main bolt, to make room for the main beam. From there, two pairs go up the ceilng, another two outside the house and last pair goes over the deck. Last, I adjusted the turnbuckles. For the spaceing between the joists, take into account what will be placed above. Starting with the deck floor, I first calculated to 12mm the needed gap between the planks so they can be spaced evenly across the deck without the need for an odd (rip cut) plank. Also these are only the main components - for the rest you will find more details in the steps below. Then, I connected the two anchor points with a thin string, marked, cut and measured the exact distance between them. Your neighbour still wonders why it took you so long to just "put some screws" on your trees. https://www.scribd.com/doc/179028622/The-Complete-... Design and 3D Print Your Own Phone Case (in Fusion 360). The thick 44x95 plates of the side walls were connected to the studs (the vertical boards) with angle braces and then 6x80mm screws through pocket holes (see last two pictures). But I can't do that until it is complete. You can see what other people made here in instructables, in youtube and in some sites for general DIY (diychatroom.com, and finehomebuilding are two sites I got some ideas and posted some questions). When I started the project, my only power tools were a hand drill and an orbital sander. The custom washers are needed to provide additional support to the unthreaded part of the lag bolt. To complete the frame there are two additional boards connecting the edges of the floor joists - lets call them end joists. When you are done with the leveling, mark on the trees the 4 points where the bottom of the boards toutch the bark of the trees. For the wall siding I used 14mm thick T&G planks and nailed them on the frame with two 2x40mm nails on every junction with the frame boards. Zelkova treehouse Recently redesigned, with increased interior space, easier wall and roof installation, and many minor updates. I put my marks at around 1.8m so that an adult will be able to walk under the treehouse without banging the head on the main beams. First, you need to put some strips of wood on the trapdoor frame to hold the trapdoor when closed. You need to find the sweet spot where the steel wire is just about to lift the platform, not too slack but not releasing the weight from the main anchor points of step4. The tree on the right is leaning away from the other tree (which is ok) and it also tilts away from the house in the background (which creates a bunch of problems with the main beams). If you are going to make the loop yourself you need a thimble (shaping the loop) and a ferrule (securing the loop) - you can have them made for a small additional cost. Two large triangles of thick exterior plywood (at least ¾") can be bolted securely to a 2x8 beam as shown below. The input values for the calculations are (all symbols are described in the first pic): After writing down all the other values derived from the input values, I cross cut the 19x145mm board that will make the ridge board and I made two supports to hold it up. The technique is exactly the same as the trapdoor of step 10. When I was happy with how the rafter looks and how it fits on all rafter marks left and right, I cut the real rafters. Call a friend to help you lift them on the anchor points. At a height 1.8m (6') from the ground the minimum distance between them is 2.5m (8'). After disassembling and carrying everything from the workshop to the site, I used my car as a platform to help lift the walls. (RB) the thickness of the ridge board. Google "wood balcony","deck", "tree platform" for the platform part of the t/h. There are some practical tricks in the net that may help you and if you want more than that, I added an excel sheet where you can type the input values and have all the other values you will need - just round the figures to the rearest 0.5mm. The nails go at an angle just above the tongue so they are hidden by the groove of the next plank (google how to install T&G planks if it's your first time). Mark where you need to cut them (leave a fair distance after the end of the bracket) and also where the bolts and the brackets will be along the board. I double-checked the dimensions and ordered the four pieces ready with the loops made by the seller. After putting the ply sheets at place, I attached them with 4x35mm screws. Towards the edge of the board you need to make a 16mm hole for a 16mm eye bolt that will hold the steel rope for the diagonal support (see the sketch above). You can get away with much less if you have access to cheap wood. Treehouses that will not be very large can be supported quite simply between two trees. The floor and its sliding mechanism work in the same way as above, but braces are used to hold up the end of the main support beams instead of the plywood. Then, I applied a dark brown varnish on the visible part of the door frame to make a contrast with the siding. Your first few sketches will help you settle on the basic layout (windows, doors, hatch door, decks) and some basic dimensions (house hight, roof slope, floor-to-ground hight). In my case A=2270/2=1135mm, (a) The hight of the rafter boards. They will be used for some lights, a ceiling fan and whatever other project- some may be left idle. If you can get 20mm (3/4") thick or even 25mm (1") it would be great - you will just need to adjust the dimensions of the other components, A piece of metal tube having an ID that matches your lag bolt -pick a thick one. If you have already settled on a treehouse project you can skip steps 1 to 3, as you probably already know what tools, materials and plans you need. When all the walls were put to place and bolted to each other, I fixed them on the platform with ten 8x120mm lag bolts (I think 6x120 would be fine) - 3 bolts on each long wall and 2 bolts on each short one.After this, I added the bottom T&G plank to complete the wall siding.

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